Churchill's Champagne: A 42-Year Devotion

Sir Winston Churchill, a titan of 20th-century statesmanship, was renowned for many things, not least his steadfast devotion to Champagne. His consumption was prodigious, with estimates suggesting he enjoyed some 42,000 bottles of Pol Roger throughout his lifetime. Yet, this was no mere indulgence; it was a cultivated preference, underpinned by a profound appreciation for a specific house. Churchill's declaration, "My tastes are simple, I am easily satisfied with the best," encapsulated his discerning palate, for Pol Roger had been his preferred Champagne since as early as 1908.

The deep, personal connection between Churchill and Pol Roger blossomed in the aftermath of World War II. It was at a luncheon in Paris in November 1944, hosted by the British Ambassador, Duff Cooper, that Churchill was seated beside the charismatic Odette Pol-Roger. This encounter sparked an immediate rapport, forging a friendship rooted in mutual admiration and a shared love of fine Champagne. Odette, a figure of notable courage as a former Resistant, undoubtedly captivated the wartime leader.

Their bond deepened over the ensuing years, marked by gestures of reciprocal esteem. Odette Pol-Roger faithfully dispatched a case of vintage Champagne to Churchill for his birthday each year. In a charming tribute, Churchill named one of his racehorses 'Pol Roger', a filly that galloped to victory at Kempton Park in 1953, the year of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation. Though the pressures of his office regrettably prevented him from ever visiting Épernay, Churchill famously proclaimed Pol Roger's address at 44 Avenue de Champagne to be "the most drinkable address in the world". He further immortalised their connection by inscribing a copy of his Memoirs, sent to Odette, with "Cuvée de Réserve, mise en bouteille au Château de Chartwell".

Following Churchill's death in 1965, the Champagne house paid its respects by bordering the labels of Brut Non-Vintage bottles destined for the United Kingdom in black, a poignant mark of mourning. A decade later, in 1975, Pol Roger conceived its ultimate tribute: the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, a prestige Cuvée first released in 1984, ten years after his passing. The inaugural 1975 vintage was initially released exclusively in Magnum format, underscoring its significance.

The Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill

This eponymous Cuvée was meticulously crafted to embody the very qualities Churchill sought in his Champagne: robustness, a full-bodied character, and impressive maturity. While the precise blend remains a closely guarded family secret, it is predominantly composed of Pinot Noir, imparting structure and breadth, complemented by Chardonnay, which lends elegance, finesse, and subtlety. The grapes are sourced exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards that were already under vine during Churchill's lifetime, ensuring a historical authenticity. This Cuvée is only produced in the finest vintages and is always released later than other vintage-dated Champagnes from Pol Roger, reflecting Churchill's appreciation for older wines. The extended maturation in Pol Roger's remarkably deep, cool cellars-33 metres below street level, maintaining a constant 9.5 °C-contributes to the exceptionally fine mousse and profound complexity for which the house is renowned.

Churchill's Champagne habits were as legendary as his political acumen. He consistently preferred older vintages, with the 1928 being a particular favourite, followed by the 1935, 1945, and 1947. His preference leaned towards a robust style of fizz, a characteristic more prevalent in Champagnes of his era, which were often more heavily dominated by Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. It is said that he drank an Imperial Pint bottle daily, finding that "half a bottle is too little and a whole bottle too much". His often-quoted axiom, "Champagne should be dry, cold, and free," perfectly encapsulates his unpretentious yet exacting standards.

A Lasting Imprint

The Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill remains a beacon of prestige, released only in exceptional vintages, a connoisseur's Champagne produced in limited quantities. Pol Roger itself continues its legacy as one of the few remaining family-owned Grande Marque houses, upholding its founder's commitment to quality. The enduring friendship between Churchill and the Pol Roger family is a testament to shared values and a mutual respect that transcends mere commerce. In a fitting tribute to this extraordinary bond, a statue of Churchill was recently unveiled at Pol Roger's new production centre, marking the house's 175th anniversary. For those seeking to connect with history through the glass, a bottle of Pol Roger offers more than mere effervescence; it presents a sip of a truly remarkable, 42-year love affair.